Friday, July 12, 2013

Misgivings and Stinky Feet

Having stayed overnight last Saturday in Birmingham, we were in a position to see the 16th Street Baptist Church as more than just a historical epicenter, but as a living church. However, none of us except Ryan brought dress clothes - Ryan had a shirt, tie, slacks and shoes from attending Stephanie's wedding. But I sent my suit back with my mother in law and the best I had were cargo shorts and a collared but informal short sleeve shirt.

Knowing what I know about African Americans and Sunday-go-to-meeting attire, I said I would not go, even though I really did want to. Despite my status as a free thinker, I LOVE gospel music and have always said that if I was to be a Christian, that'd be the way I'd go. But I felt strongly I could not disrespect the congregation and be the bearded white guy in shorts who enjoyed unreflectively the privelege to walk into a southern baptist church in a prominent African-American community wearing whatever the f*&^ he pleased.

Sarah had similar misgivings and seems to have also arrived at the same belief about "if I were a Christian I'd go Baptist for the music and singing and participation!" But Kathie spiffed her up in silky black pajama pants that Sarah was uncomfortable with, but looked just fine with a clean simple top. Kathie looked presentable too, so the three of them went to go inside at about 11am Sunday.

I sat mulling the situation over on a wall across the street, watching church-goers walk up in twos and threes dressed, as I knew they would be, to the "nines" for the service. As regretful as I was, I thought I was doing the right thing. A white guy in shorts pulled up in a car with Kansas plates, and ran up and in late, and I said to myself, "that's the guy I don't want to be."

Still, Kathie was texting me saying she'd located an inconspicuous spot in the balcony and urged me to get in there. I could hear the Hammond organ, drums, various instruments and a big choir going. Ambivalent, I relented against my stance of principle and snuck up the balcony to where they were.

Well the service was all I could have asked for - lively and incredibly talented gospel singing and harmonies, a kickin' organ (I'm a sucker for that alone), and an engaged congregation. I missed the baptisms which were reportedly also very exciting, but the rest of the service was uplifting even for someone who has some contrarian views about god and religion. In fact, I took this pic elsewhere during our trip to note how striking it was to find a fellow traveler.

Pastor Price did a very good job with the sermon, based on the theme "Turn in Your Title, Take a Towel," focusing on a bible segment about Jesus washing his disciples' feet at the Last Supper. Important lessons he imparted about the significance of setting aside one's preoccupations with status to become a real, true leader.

Here I need to digress into something sticky. In all the work I do as a social justice educator and in all the workshops on identity, race and class I've participated in, the thing that sticks with me most as a lesson I carry with me every day is this. We never eliminate or dispose of our biases, at best we can  identify and acknowledge them, anticipate their emergence or reconsider whether and how they may shape our thoughts, feelings, actions, words.  If we work hard at it, we can get good at checking them before they express themselves in ways we might not intend and do damage. I think Brenda Allen at Smith helped me understand this best by telling me we all carry them with us, it's what we do about that that matters.

So in that spirit, I shared my initial reactions to Pastor Price with Sarah which were really quite different than what I write here.  In hindsight now I think I need to explain all this to her too. My first reaction to the sermon was that I found it to be more theatrical than substantive, and perhaps in my own mind also, my only role model for such sermons is MLK himself who, to be fair, is very likely in a class of his own. I think I reacted this way too to several of the docents we encountered at civil rights museums. That their use of hyperbole, their employment of a preaching style, or in particular, the part of it that is about gaining momentum and pace, exploiting and enhancing verbal impact through rhyme, repitition, alliteration - other *techniques* - somehow raises suspicion in me. Suspicion that the medium and delivery have become more important than the message. That the deliverer's obvious self-pleasure at their own delivery as performance is about themselves somehow and not about the content which they are trying to address. Or, maybe about attempting to manipulate the audience through technique rather than content. And that somehow this style (which, by the way, one might readily identify in other modes like hip-hop!) sets off my BS detector. It makes me listen harder and ask: are those mechanisms of delivery really enhancing the message? Or are they cheap efforts at distracting me from some lack of depth or insight or sophistication? Is there depth and meaning in there, or are the techniques somehow shortcuts to impact, like a sugar buzz? I might say this is a reaction to a sales pitch anyone might reasonably have, but as I check myself here I wonder: is this a reaction based on a latent cultural bias? Is it a coincidence the same things that put my neck hairs on end come from preaching and hip-hop? I remember arriving to Cape Town to meet up with my colleague Louis Wilson, Afro-Am Studies Professor for our South Africa program. We both flew Delta and both flights showed "Remember the Titans." He asked me what I thought and I told him I thought it was sappy and "Hollywood." He looked hurt and said he'd found it inspiring. I chalked this off to our generational difference. But... So overall, as I now reconsider all this and try to remember those lessons I said I've taken from this work, I am now asking whether I'm not only being hypercritical and unfair, but in fact missing some of the spirit and intent of such delivery when I evade soaking in the medium and its musicality, its art, its cultural expression... I now think perhaps Pastor Price worked pretty hard on the whole package and that bringing it all together like that is not only some work, but artful.

Amidst the sermon though, this atheist couldn't help but find funny several remarks he made - clearly to be understood in part through the lens I describe above but also just simply because they're funny on their own.

1. "Jesus can change your paycheck".  Really? Gotta look into that.
2. "By and by, there are gonna be some stinky feet in the relationship." The context is important here and it was meant to be humorous, but the idea followed from the concept that marriage follows the wedding...
3. "At Jesus' dry cleaners, the detergent he uses us not Tide, not All, it's his word." I found myself wondering things like "does he use starch?" and "does he pick up and deliver?" and "what's his view on toxic chemicals..."

But "Trade in your title; take a towel" was  delivered with style, and I'm glad I got to witness it.

Of course, my plans to be entirely inconspicuous ended when the Pastor asked all guests to stand up and be welcomed. I felt genuinely welcomed, and also entirely confirmed in my ambivalence about being the white guy in shorts after all.


Thursday, July 11, 2013

Georgia on our minds

Yet, amazingly, not on our radio - how did I neglect my #1 musician's song during our travels through Georgia?  I didn't even hit up the Godfather of Soul! I did play some Allmans though.

Atlanta!

MLK National Historic Site - AMAZING. The museum, gravesite, and childhood home are fittingly grand yet warm and welcoming for the inspiring man. The  Auburn Ave Neighborhood where we also toured MLK Childhood Home is fascinating. He was born and raised in a beautiful home any upper-middle class American would be fortunate to reside in. Yet as a consequence of segregation, the neighborhood was made up of black residents of ALL means, meaning that from his backyard he could miss a baseball toss from his brother and have the ball roll under one of several 3-room shacks lining one side of his yard. We asked about this and the report was that the neighbors were close - to the point that any parent could (and would) spank any kid for misbehavior.

After a day full of MLK and his family, we headed to the south side to meet up with my student Mariyah Sabir at her father's soul food restaurant in College Park, "Big Daddy's." I innocently (ok, maybe not-so-innocently) asked her where the nickname came from, and she gave me the appropriate diplomatic response - "well, you'll know when you meet him." And meet him we did - we went to visit him at a second restaurant site about 15 minutes away he was opening in only two more days so we were very appreciative he could spare the time. While I would say he had me at "Mariyah" who is a committed community fellow working with adult learners in Chicopee, MA, he had me even more when he greeted me with a hug and the words "Gimme some love, Professor!"  His food was awesome and we all hope the new store is a big success. Looking forward to seeing him at graduation next May too. BTW, I think I could plausibly claim that nickname too...

On our way out, we visited the home of Alonzo Herndon, a self-made wealthy black man who made his money without virtually any formal education, and with many racial and socio-economic barriers in his way. Mr Herndon was the son of a slave and her master (from whom he drew his name) born just prior to the Emancipation Proclamation in 1865. He left home at 18 having saved 11 bucks (a lot in those days) to learn to cut hair, open his own shop, and eventually establish several businesses. In Atlanta his main marks were a white-only barber shop in which the workers were all black, from which he gained much of his education (learning from the businessmen who came through), and...The Atlanta Life Insurance Company. All this yielded him the income to build a stately mansion now amidst the campuses (Morehouse, Spelman, etc.) on the north side of town. We toured the home and were blown away at what he'd managed to accomplish.

Both the mansion and the MLK site didn't permit pics but you can google them both to see and learn more.

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Alabama getaway

Getaway... Only way to please me, you just gotta leave and walk away. (But no, I'm not really a Dead fan)

The most striking thing to me about travels through Montgomery, Selma, Birmingham and Anniston was how much more effort has gone into marking, commemorating and even celebrating Alabama's civil rights history than what we saw in Mississippi.  This observation is not mine really - the book we're travelling with by Jim Carrier told us to expect as much. But it's even more true than I think he signalled. Here's what we saw in Alabama - an amazing amount and some great quality tours and exhibits:

- The Dexter Avenue Church where MLK was Pastor 1954-60 (Montgomery)
- The Dexter Church Parsonage where he and his family lived (after succeeding the impressive Vernon Johns) and which was bombed (Montgomery)
- The Rosa Parks Museum (Montgomery)
- The Greyhound Bus Terminal/Freedom Riders Museum (Montgomery)
- The Edmund Pettus Bridge and Civil Rights Park at its end in Selma
- The Sixteenth Street Baptist Church (Birmingham: left)
- The Civil Rights Institute (Birmingham)
- Murals at the Greyhound and Trailways Bus Terminal sites of Freedom Rider violence (Anniston)

What I found remarkable too was the lack of vandalism or graffiti on some of the more remote or unmonitored sites - the two bus stations in Anniston, for example, where Freedom Riders were ambushed. These are in alleys in town that could easily be targetted by the yahoos I can't help but believe still live nearby - chastened maybe, quieter, but there nonetheless. And yet...

Other key highlights:
- meeting Johnnie Walker (yes, his real name - on the left at right), a man we met in Kelly Ingram Park where youth gathered to protest in May 1963, only to be attacked by dogs and sprayed by high-power water cannon at the order of the monstrous Bull Connor. These events are commemorated in the Park by the sculptures and other signage (in the pics).

Johnnie generously shared his own story of those days which including him getting shot by a white youth who was his neighbor, and he took us over to see the Eddie Kendrick memorial nearby where we sang a few Temptations tunes, and then to see his buddy's (on the right in the picture) AWESOME barber shop


Rickwood Field - oldest baseball park in the US (beats Fenway by 2 years!)

I'm not under any illusions that the persistent prejudices and the horrific socio-economic consequences of segregation are dispelled or healed - clearly throughout our trip we are seeing communities that remain very deeply divided in their physical/geographical, economic, and psychological layouts. Unquestionably, as all over this country, the forms of separation, discrimination and racism are mainly morphed, buried beneath surfaces, or softened in ways that are perhaps even more troubling and dangerous. But I gotta give Alabama some credit for putting the disgusting and horrific events of history on its walls and streets and in its publications and monuments and buildings, and OUT in the public arena. Though they've already begun to benefit in small ways (in the forms of jobs and maybe some status in the museums and facilities), I hope to see southern black folk start to own even more of the tourist payoffs that are beginning to come from the inspiring stories of resilience and hope that are ready to witness from these sights.

Monday, July 8, 2013

Nowhere like NOLA

New Orleans, no place I've ever been quite like it. This post is NOT for school children, Ms. Bredin. Fortunately, she has now relieved me of the editorial responsibility to keep this G-rated, so hereforth expect more candor, snark, and hopefully some insights and pokes at racists
all more worthy (and perhaps characteristic) of my style.

Checked into the Courtyard Marriott downtown which is right in the French Quarter, conveniently located for anyone wanting to arrange to stumble home from a night on or around Bourbon Street. Taking teenagers down Bourbon St. btw is quite a trip, with hawkers calling guys into strip clubs for "Daddy Day Care" and women amazing both my 14 y.o. boy AND my 15 y.o. girl!  Beale Street in Memphis was like a walk through the Holyoke Mall compared to Bourbon Street.  The music was awesome, and we enjoyed a Hurricane at Pat O'Brien's as one must.

Streetcar out St. Charles St. showed us the gorgeous homes and greenery of the Garden District, and then we had a great walk through Audobon Park down toward the river where we caught a bus back. The bus driver was the highlight - friendly and offered us what turned out to be the best eating tips - po-boys at Daisy Dukes or Johnny's, and Gumbo at The Gumbo Shop. Daisy's, as it turns out, had $8 bottomless Bloody Mary's. The waiter didn't take us seriously when we said "no" to a refill to-go, and brought back this:

Which is understandable since apparently EVERYONE walks around with a drink in their hand in the French Quarter, at all times of day.

Couldn't manage to link up with Bucknell buddy Bill DeTurk but spoke by phone and got a shout-out later that morning on WWOZ during his weekly show. Looking forward to a return trip to party with the guy who writes on booze and music for local publications and has a New Orleans music show on the hippest station in town.

On the way out to our Cajun Encounter (below) in Slidell, we stopped by the elementary school integrated courageously by Ruby Bridges, and then the other school integrated by four other children. Both were in the Lower 9th Ward where homes were devastated in 2005 by Katrina, and it is remarkable how uneven the recovery appears there - rebuilt homes adjacent to still crumbling and moldy ones. The bus driver I mentioned told us the city is still down 170-180,000 people who haven't returned. We could see it here.

Headed from there to Slidell where Scotty motored us and 16 others around on an open flat boat none of us would have been pleased to fall out of.


Scotty, after kissing the gator, said he was afraid of snakes and spiders. Uh-huh. He did have all his fingers (we looked), if not all his teeth. Let's make that snakes, spiders and dentists, Scotty...








Miss Issippi

 Been a whirlwind several days since the last chance I had to write a full post.  So here I'll cover Mississippi (which we termed Miss Issippi on account of her being, we surmise, the unmarried daughter of Mr. Issippi), New Orleans, and Alabama. I'm writing from a hotel room in Atlanta where we've just arrived.

After leaving Memphis July 2, we took a full day to wind our way down back roads to stay the night in Jackson before heading to New Orleans the next day.  We took the Blues Highway, fabled Route 61, south from Memphis tracing the steps of many famous blues players in reverse who headed from the Delta to Memphis and Chicago mainly.
Mississippi has done a good job of marking the dozens of blues players' places of birth and rise to fame with a "Blues Trail," marked on a map and organized by a proper tourist-oriented web site here: http://msbluestrail.org/. We stopped at a few markers but the truth is that the map wasn't terribly well organized to be able to find your favorites and seek them out - it was best used to just see the scope of Mississippi's blues heritage and claims on so many amazing singers, guitarists, harpists, and entertainers.


Stopped into Clarksdale, passing through the "Crossroads" where Robert Johnson mythically sold his soul so that Eric Clapton could nail down a gazillion versions of the song with every other guitar hero imaginable playing along. Took a tour of the Delta Blues museum, the highlight of which was Muddy Waters' reconstructed childhood home with a life-size Muddy sitting watch outside. Hit Abe's BBQ for a round of "Big Abes" (pulled pork sandwiches with slaw) for lunch.

After lunch though we began our backroads civil rights history trail by heading south through Ruleville to see a modest but, as it turned out, more substantial memorial than most anything else we were able to find in Miss Issippi. Ruleville carved out a corner of a playground for Fannie Lou Hamer, a fiery thorn in the side of the Democratic Party who earned the epithet "that illiterate woman" from LBJ as she threatened his nomination in '64.


We took back roads southeast from there through the town of Money, MS where poor Emmet Till had the misfortune of looking askew (or whistling) at a young woman whose husband and friend came back to kidnap, beat, shoot, and toss him in the river later that night. Money is barely even a town, and this marker is about all that identifies the place many say is the birthplace of the fight for civil rights. I later learned from someone that there had been an effort to purchase the grocery by a group
wanting to establish a museum or memorial on the site. The farmer who owned the site had agreed to sell for $70-80K, until the buyers showed up with money they had raised and he learned of their intentions at which point he raised the price to $1M. I was also told this marker was the fifth placed there - the previous four having been torn down.

From Money we headed toward Greenwood, site of both mourning and protest at Till's death, and subsequently significant voter registration efforts by Sam Block. We visited the steps of the courthouse building where blacks were systematically denied for random reasons their right to register, sites of various meetings etc. Of note was the large white man in the white police-style cruiser who swung a U-turn after passing us pulled-over to the side of the road to look at the sites in a neighborhood that may not ever really have seen better days. He asked "Did we need help finding our way?" and when I said no, thanks, we're fine, he said "Best be careful 'round here..." and drove off with me wondering just what happened. We took pics in Greenwood, but mostly to remind us of what meager conditions people there still live in and not for publication.

From Greenwood we headed for Jackson with a very sad feeling that so little of this history was being acknowledged never mind commemorated appropriately here. Fortunately, in Jackson, despite finding more evidence of long term depression and the lingering legacies of segregation and economic racism, we also found more somewhat positive signs. The home of Medgar Evers, where he was tragically shot in his driveway with his family inside, has been taken over by Tougaloo College who provided an archivist to give an informal tour and excellent historical overiew. Down the street was the awesome Smith-Robertson School, from which Richard Wright graduated, now made into what we now know is one more in a series of excellent civil rights movement and African-American history museums.

We visited the Greyhound Bus station where Freedom Riders got off to be promptly hauled off to the nearby State Fairgrounds and placed in animal cages for imprisonment, and saw the formerly thriving African American business district of Farish Street. Beautiful with much potential, under partial restoration, but apparently lacking the "oomph" of a more widespread and sustained economic recovery.





Thursday, July 4, 2013